Fluke 116 vs 117: Which Meter Wins?

I spent the last month putting two of the most popular multimeters to work on my bench and in the field. Here is exactly what I found when using them for real repairs and daily testing.

My Experience With the Fluke 116

I took the Fluke 116 out on a cold Tuesday to help a neighbor whose furnace kept cutting out. The first thing I noticed was how light it felt in my hand. I wasn’t just looking at numbers; I was trying to save a cold house. I used the microamps setting to check the flame sensor. It showed a steady 4.2 µA, which told me the sensor was clean and working.

I also used the built-in thermometer to check the air vent temp. It was fast and I didn’t have to carry a second tool. One thing that bugged me was the lack of a high current range. I couldn’t check the blower motor draw directly. For HVAC work, it is a specialist tool, but for general high-power electrical, it feels a bit limited.

My Experience With the Fluke 117

Last week, I moved over to a commercial shop floor to test some wiring. The Fluke 117 was my go-to here. The best part? The VoltAlert feature. I just held the top of the meter near a junction box, and it glowed red. It’s a great safety check before you even touch a wire. I tested a car battery draw by putting the meter in series.

It handled the 5-amp load without a sweat. I also did some continuity tests on a long run of wire. The beep is loud and instant. There is zero lag, which is huge when you are testing fifty wires in a row. It feels like a tank. I dropped it once on the concrete, and it didn’t even scuff.

Details Comparison for Fluke 116 vs 117

Both meters look almost the same, but they act very differently when you start probing live circuits. Here is the deep dive into the data I gathered.

Accuracy and Measurement Stability

I compared both meters against a high-end reference meter on my bench. Both stayed within 0.5% of the target voltage. The readings on both were very stable. Neither meter showed any “drift” even after being left on for twenty minutes. The Fluke 117 felt a tiny bit faster when catching a peak voltage.

Real World Measurement Ranges

The range is where these two split up. I tried to measure a 12V DC motor start-up with the 116 and I couldn’t do it. The 117 handled the 8-amp surge easily. However, when I needed to check a small circuit board, the 116 gave me much better detail in the microamp range.

Display and Use in Dark Spaces

I worked in a dark crawlspace on Friday. Both screens have a white LED backlight. It is bright and clear. The digits are large. You can see them from a side angle quite well. The dial on both clicks firmly into place, even when I wore thick work gloves.

Build Quality and Drop Testing

I am tough on my gear. These meters have a thick rubber holster. I did a “tailgate drop” test from about three feet. Both bounced and kept working. The leads that come in the box are high quality, but they get a bit stiff if the temp drops below freezing.

Battery Life and Efficiency

Both use a single 9V battery. I have used these for three weeks straight and the low battery icon hasn’t shown up yet. The auto-off feature is a life saver. It kicks in after 15 minutes. This saves you from a dead meter on Monday morning because you left it on over the weekend.

Conclusion

If you work on heaters or AC units, get the Fluke 116. The temp probe and microamp settings are vital. If you do general electrical work or fix cars, the Fluke 117 is the better pick. Its 10A range and non-contact voltage check make it a great daily tool. Both are pro-grade tools that will last you for a decade.