I remember the exact moment I realized something was wrong. I was out back on a crisp Saturday morning, cutting up some fallen oak for firewood. The saw was running great, but then I smelled it. It wasn’t the smell of fresh wood chips or 2-stroke exhaust. It was the smell of hot metal and burning oil.
I stopped the saw and touched the bar. It was scorching hot. The chain was bone dry.
My heart sank a little. A dry chain ruins your bar and dulls your cutters in seconds. If you are dealing with a Stihl chainsaw oiler not working, don’t panic. I have been there. It is usually a simple fix, not a broken saw.
Here is what I did to troubleshoot the problem, step by step.
Stop and Check the Oil First
Before I tore my saw apart, I did the “dummy check.” We all make mistakes when we are tired or in a rush.
I checked the oil tank. It was full. But then I looked at the oil itself. I was using a thick summer-grade bar oil, but it was freezing outside. The oil was like molasses. It was too thick for the pump to move.
My tip: Shake the oil jug. If it moves slow like honey, it will move slow in your saw. I swapped it for a thinner winter-grade oil.
Sawdust Clogs
The oil was fine, but the chain was still dry. I knew I had to dig deeper. 90% of the time, the issue isn’t a broken part. It is just dirt.
I took the side cover off and removed the bar and chain.
1. The Oil Outlet Hole: I looked at the side of the powerhead (the engine part). There is a tiny slot where the oil pumps out. Mine was packed tight with fine sawdust and old oil. It formed a little plug. I used a stiff piece of wire to pick it out. I started the saw with the bar off (be careful!) and revved it slightly. Oil bubbled out. That was a good sign. The pump was working.
2. The Guide Bar Hole: Next, I looked at the bar itself. The bar has a small hole that lines up with that outlet. If this hole is blocked, the oil hits a wall. I held the bar up to the sun. I couldn’t see light through the hole. It was clogged. I used a small pick to clear it.
3. The Bar Groove: Finally, I checked the groove where the chain sits. I ran my bar tool down the track. It scraped out a long ribbon of packed gunk. If this groove is full, oil can’t travel to the nose of the bar.
The Internal Check
If cleaning the bar didn’t fix it, I knew I had to look inside the tank.
I fished out the oil pickup filter using a bent coat hanger. It’s a little weighted head on the end of a hose inside the oil tank.
On my old MS 250, this filter was once covered in slime. I just washed it off with a little gas. This time, it looked clean.
I also checked the tank vent. If air can’t get into the tank, the oil can’t get out. It creates a vacuum lock. I opened the oil cap after running the saw. If you hear a “hiss” of air rushing in, your vent is likely clogged.
The Worm Gear
If your specific Stihl model (like an MS 170, 180, 210, 250) is still dry, it might be the worm gear.
This sounds technical, but it is simple. The oil pump is driven by a plastic arm that sits behind the clutch. If the chain gets pinched in a log, this plastic arm strips out. It is a safety feature to save the engine.
I have replaced one of these before. You have to take off the E-clip and the clutch drum. If the plastic teeth on the arm look chewed up, you need a new one. They are cheap and easy to swap.
Quick Troubleshooting Guide
Here is a quick table to help you spot the issue fast.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | The Fix |
| Bar is hot & smoking | No oil flow | Stop immediately. Check oil level. |
| Oil tank stays full | Clogged passage | Clean the oil hole and bar groove. |
| Leaking oil when sitting | Temperature change | This is normal. loosen cap to vent pressure. |
| Oil bubbles from saw, not bar | Blocked bar hole | Clean the tiny hole on the bar. |
| No oil at all (Clean saw) | Stripped worm gear | Check the plastic gear behind the clutch. |
Final Thoughts
After cleaning the bar holes and the groove, I put everything back together. I pointed the tip of the bar at a light-colored stump and revved the engine. A fine line of oil sprayed onto the wood. Success!
There is nothing quite like the feeling of a well-tuned tool. Taking ten minutes to clean your saw properly saves you the headache of a burnt bar—and a lot of money.
Keep that sawdust out, and your saw will run forever.
FAQs – Stihl Chainsaw Oiler Is Not Working
Why is my Stihl chainsaw oiler not working?
It is likely clogged with sawdust. Wood chips block the small oil hole on the bar. Clean this hole and the bar groove to fix the flow.
How do I test my chainsaw oil pump?
Remove the bar and chain. Start the saw and rev the engine safely. If oil bubbles out of the side port, your pump is working fine.
How do I unclog a chainsaw oiler?
Use a stiff wire or a pick. Poke it into the oil outlet on the saw and the hole on the bar. Scrape the bar rails clean with a tool.
Can I use used motor oil in my chainsaw?
No, do not use it. Used oil has metal bits that hurt the pump. It is also too thin and flies off the chain. Stick to real bar oil.
Why does my chainsaw leak oil when sitting?
Heat makes the oil expand. This pressure pushes oil out of the vent. It is normal. Drain the tank if you store the saw for a long time.