I still remember the first time I smoked a bar. I was cutting an oak log in my backyard. The saw was loud, but it wasn’t cutting well. Then I saw it. Blue smoke rose from the wood. It smelled like burning metal.
I panicked. I thought I blew the engine.
My engine was fine. My chain was just bone dry.
I learned the hard way. The engine gives power, but oil keeps things moving. If the metal isn’t slick, you ruin the bar and dull the chain. You also work way too hard.
Here is how I keep my chain oiled now. It is simple, and it saves me money.
Most Saws Are Automatic
Most of my saws have an automatic oiler. This means I don’t have to squirt oil on the chain by hand. A small pump does it for me.
But you have to keep the tank full.
My rule is simple. When I add gas, I add oil.
If you use a battery saw, check the oil every time you swap a battery. It is easy to forget. Running dry ruins the tool fast.
How I Fill the Tank
It seems easy, but dirt is the enemy.
- I set the saw flat. I use my truck gate or a flat stump.
- I clean the cap first. This is the big step. I wipe all the dust off the cap. If dirt falls in, it clogs the pump.
- I pour carefully. I use real Bar and Chain Oil. Do not use old motor oil. Motor oil is too thin. It flies off the chain. Bar oil is sticky. It stays put.
- I fill to the top. The tank is made to run out of gas before oil. If my gas is empty but my oil is full, I know the oil isn’t flowing.
The “Secret” Step: Clean the Groove
Pouring oil is not enough. The oil must move from the tank to the chain.
One time, my chain was dry even with a full tank. I took the bar off. The tiny oil hole was packed with dust.
Now, I use a little flat tool or a wire. When I sharpen the chain, I scrape out the bar groove.
You won’t believe the gunk inside. It looks like a ribbon of packed wood. If the groove is full, oil cannot move. A clean groove means a cool chain.
The Sling Test: My Final Check
I never cut wood without the “Sling Test.” It takes ten seconds.
- I start the saw.
- I find a light spot. A fresh stump or clean cardboard works.
- I hold the bar tip six inches away.
- I rev the engine for a few seconds.
I look for a line of oil drops. If I see the spray, the pump works. If it is dry, I shut it down. I do not cut until I fix it.
Picking the Right Oil
I used to buy cheap oil. Then I cut in the cold winter with “Summer” oil. It was too thick to pour.
Now, I check the weather. Here is a table I use to choose my oil.
READ MORE: Best 2 Stroke Oil for Chainsaw
My Oil Cheat Sheet
| Season | Oil Type | Why I Use It |
| Summer (Hot) | SAE 30 (Thick) | It sticks to the chain in the heat. |
| Winter (Cold) | SAE 10 (Thin) | It flows well when it is freezing. |
| Emergency | Canola Oil | Only for short jobs. It can spoil. |
Summary
Oiling a chainsaw chain is more than just filling a tank. You have to keep the path clear.
- Wipe the cap to keep dirt out.
- Clean the groove so oil can flow.
- Do the sling test to be sure.
It took a ruined chain for me to learn this. Now my saws last longer, and the wood cuts like butter.
FAQs – How to Oil a Chainsaw Chain
Can I use motor oil in my chainsaw?
No, do not use old motor oil. It is too thin and flies off the chain. Real bar and chain oil is sticky. It stays on the bar to keep the metal cool and safe.
How often should I fill the oil tank?
You do not oil it by hand often. Just fill the oil tank each time you add gas to the saw. If you use a battery saw, check the oil level when you swap the pack.
Why is my chainsaw using so much oil?
It is normal to use one tank of oil for one tank of gas. If it leaks when off, check the cap. A bad seal lets oil out. Clean the rim well to stop the mess.
What happens if I run my saw without oil?
The chain will get very hot and smoke. The metal parts will rub and break fast. You can ruin the bar and the chain in just a few minutes. Always check the tank.
How do I fix a clogged oiler?
Take off the bar and chain. Look for the small oil hole on the saw body. Use a wire to poke out the dirt. Also, clean the groove on the bar so oil can flow well.